Wein am Limit - Hendrik Thoma
04.06.2017 - Folge 305

„Im Rausch der Hefe!“ - Vin Jaune von Château d’Arlay

Liebe Walinauten,

in den kaltfeuchten Kellern von Château d’Arlay im französischen Jura reift unter einer dünnen Hefeschicht, namens Flor, der legendäre Vin Jaune -der gelbe Wein- zu einem geschmacklichen Meisterwerk heran. In nur wenigen Regionen der Welt gibt es dieses Phänomen, so zum Beispiel im Sherry Gebiet, Montilla-Moriles oder Castilla y Leon. Geographisch liegt das gebirgige Jura im Alpenvorland und dementsprechend regnet es viel, gleichzeitig kann es im Sommer sehr warm werden. Diese natürlichen Bedingungen lassen den Flor entstehen, der den Wein während seiner 6-7 jährigen Lagerung vor Oxydation schützt und ihn frisch hält.

Comte Alain de Laguiche und seine Familie betreuen seit über 1000 Jahren den weithin sichtbar markanten Hügel (nach Süden mit Wein bepflanzt) auf dem das Schloss und das einstige Dorf thronen. Die Lage, der kalkhaltige Boden und das “Know How” lassen alle Vorraussetzungen für einen Grand Cru zu. Der Vin Jaune wird aus einer Traminervariante namens Savagnin gekeltert und gehört zu den lagerfähigsten trockenen Weinen der Welt. Durch seine komplexe Aromatik nach Mandeln, Trockenfrüchten, Kräutern, Champignons, Salzbutter und Curry hat er sich zu vielen Küchen auf der Welt bewährt. Vielleicht lässt sich damit die Renaissance für die seltenen Weine (Jura hat 1800 Hektar insgesamt) erklären, denn insbesondere die Sommeliers lieben diese leicht säurebetonte trockene Richtung. Er passt am besten -bei 16° Celsius getrunken- zu Meeresfrüchten, Morcheln, Curries, Ragouts, Geflügel, Kalb oder hartem Käse.

Interessanterweise findet sich die Eigentümlichkeit des Flors in den meisten der Weinen von Château d’Arlay wieder, aber weniger ausgeprägt. Irgendwie erinnern mich diese Gewächse an eine glorreiche Vergangenheit, aber auch an die Zukunft des Weines. Denn nur durch Einzigartig und Beharrlichkeit besteht die Chance nicht im Meer des Mittelmaßes unterzugehen. Tradition ist Innovation von gestern. Seinen Stil muss man pflegen und weiterentwickeln, wie auf Château d’Arlay die zum Beispiel ihre Hefen mit elektromagnetischen Schwingungen stimmulieren. Durch diese Methode bildet sich der Flor schneller und kann somit den Wein besser schützen.

“Die ersten 100 Jahre waren die schwersten!”, hat ein berühmter Château Besitzer einst gesagt. Gut, dass das bei Château d’Arlay bereits 900 Jahre her ist.

Mehr Spass im Glas, ganz sicher…

Euer Hendrik

Die Weine aus dem Video

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Name des WeinesSoulfaktorPreis
2005 BLANC TRADITION
Château D'arlay, Côtes du Jura
32.90 €Details
2011 BLANC TRADITION
Château D'arlay, Côtes du Jura
23.90 €Details
2010 CORAIL
Château D'arlay, Côtes du Jura
19.90 €Details
2009 PINOT NOIR
Château D'arlay, Côtes du Jura
23.90 €Details
2001 VIN JAUNE
Château D'arlay, Côtes du Jura
85.00 €Details
2007 VIN JAUNE
Château D'arlay, Côtes du Jura
64.90 €Details
1998 VIN JAUNE
Château D'arlay, Côtes du Jura
96.00 €Details
2013 VIN DE PAILLE
Château D'arlay, Côtes du Jura
56.00 €Details

Kommentar verfassen

Kommentare

3 Kommentare zu “Folge 305 – „Im Rausch der Hefe!“ – Vin Jaune von Château d’Arlay

  1. hallo hendrik,
    du hast mein diesjähriges urlaubsziel wieder vor mir erreicht…
    hatte die weine erst heuer auf der weinmesse in straßbourg kennen – und lieben gelernt
    eine ganz eigene art des ausbaus und vor allem des geschmacks – ich liebe diese weine!
    ein befeundeter weinhändler mit dem ich dort war wandte sich mit den worten ab ” das ist mir zu viel tankstelle”
    also sehr polarisierender stoff – so solls ja auch sein… zu käsefondue z.b. ein hammer !
    ich freue mich sehr über diesen beitrag .

    ein hoch auf die hefe – und bis morgen abend
    harald

  2. Weine am oxidativen Limit. Charmant präsentiert vom Grahlshüter der französischen Florhefe…
    “Go to Hendrik’s”.., damit hat er alles gesagt 😉

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