Wein am Limit - Hendrik Thoma
09.09.2018 - Folge 352

Alvar de Dios Hernandez - Der Weingott, der die Höhe liebt

Liebe Walinauten,
Alvar de Dios Hernandez arbeitet in seinem Hauptjob als technischer Berater auf der Bodega Marañones in der Sierra de Gredos, den Bergen bei Madrid. Er selbst stammt aus dem heißen Toro in der Provinz Zamorra, einer Gegend bekannt für schwere Rotweine. Vor einigen Jahren fing er an die alten Weinberge seiner Familie zu übernehmen und kelterte aus den alten Reben dekadente Parzellen-Weine aus hochgelegenen Weingärten. Mit dem Jahrgang 2016 bekam er nun die erste große internationale Anerkennung durch Luis Guiterrez vom Wine Advocate, der Spaniens Weine kennt wie kaum ein Zweiter. Auch Eric Asimov von der New York Times ist ihm sehr wohlgesonnen und hat den Tio Uco als “Best buy“ ausgezeichnet. Ein Grund für uns ihn und seine Mikro-Cru in unserem Newsletter abzufeiern.

WAS MACHT DER WEINGOTT IM TORO?
Die Weine von Alvar sind noch wenig bekannt, weil sie meist über freundschaftliche Kontakte vertrieben werden und es nur sehr wenige davon gibt. Lange wurden die Beeren an andere berühmte Weingüter verkauft, bevor Alvar sich mit dem Jahrgang 2015 entschloss, sie erstmals unter seinem eigenen Namen zu vermarkten. Als wir 2016 auf der Weinmesse Prowein in Düsseldorf die komplette Range das erste Mal verkosten durften, waren wir total geflasht von der hohen Qualität und ihrer Einzigartigkeit. Anscheinend lassen sich in dieser heißen, kargen Region interessantere Weine als die üblichen „Neuholztrinkmarmeladenblockbuster“ herstellen. Alvar beweist sein Händchen für authentische, kompromisslose Weine mit Charakter. Einer der nicht mit, sondern gegen den Strom schwimmt. Bravo!

WAS IST DAS GÖTTLICHE AN DIESEN WEINEN?
Es ist die Mischung aus Leichtigkeit und Intensität, die bei Alvars Gewächsen so verblüfft. Stilistisch sind diese aufgrund der minimalistischen Vinifizierung echte „Weine am Limit“. Alvar nutzt dabei die Grundelemente, die den „Stoff aus dem die Helden sind“ ausmachen. Sehr alte, teilweise wurzelechte Weinberge, hohe Lagen mit heißen Tagestemperaturen, kühlen Nächten und anspruchsvollen Böden aus Granit oder Vulkangestein. Im Keller wird nur das Nötigste gemacht, ungeschönt, ungefiltert, ungeschminkt abgefüllt – ohne Holz, das sich in den Vordergrund spielt, oder Extrakt auskommend. Das wäre auch zu leicht und eines Weingotts unwürdig. Denn beim Barte Bacchus: Alvar ist einer, ein Weingott.

Wir wünschen mehr göttlichen Spaß im Glas,
Euer Hendrik & das WaL Team

Die Weine aus dem Video

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Name des WeinesSoulfaktorPreis
2016 TIO UCO
Alvar de Dios Hernandez, Kastilien und León
11.90 €Details
2016 YAVALLO "VILLADEPERA"
Alvar de Dios Hernandez, Kastilien und León
48.00 €Details
2016 ACIANO "EL PEGO"
Alvar de Dios Hernandez, Kastilien und León
19.90 €Details
2016 LAS VIDRES "VILLADEPERA"
Alvar de Dios Hernandez, Kastilien und León
48.00 €Details
2015 ACIANO
Alvar de Dios Hernandez, Kastilien und León
19.90 €Details
2016 VAGÜERA "EL MADERAL"
Alvar de Dios Hernandez, Kastilien und León
25.50 €Details

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